{"id":19,"date":"2010-09-02T16:14:20","date_gmt":"2010-09-02T14:14:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.wordpress.com\/?p=19"},"modified":"2010-09-02T16:14:20","modified_gmt":"2010-09-02T14:14:20","slug":"la-chinatown-milanese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/?p=19","title":{"rendered":"La Chinatown milanese"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The blog has been on hold recently due to my moving to the area around via Paolo Sarpi \u2013 Milan\u2019s \u201cChinatown.\u201d \u00a0This is a fascinating neighborhood that has exploded in the past decade or so with Chinese wholesalers. \u00a0It is an ideal place to see how immigration, trade and globalization effect modern Europe. \u00a0The small streets brim with outlets selling cheap clothes, costume jewels and watches, plastic toys, electronics, industrial items, and every other type of mass produced good imaginable.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_26\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-26\" style=\"width: 150px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_0310.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-26\" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_0310.jpg?w=150\" alt=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"84\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-26\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A shopkeeper watches over his wares<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>(Although I\u2019ve yet to find an outlet for cheap kitchen goods as serviceable as Ma Cosa?! in my old neighborhood on via Farini.)\u00a0 The Chinese food on offer looks to be much more adventurous than what you typically find in the West, and the density of the old streets, full of purposeful activity, lends the place a vibrant air that is at once familiar and alien \u2013 that couldn\u2019t be more different from the <a title=\"DC Chinatown\" href=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/d\/d3\/Chinatown,_DC_gate.jpg\" target=\"_blank\">Chinatown in my last place of residence<\/a>, which was based more on tourist\u2019s eating habits and less on trade and commerce. \u00a0Along via Rosmini and via Bruno, most of the shops appear to be tiny storefronts. A proprietor stands guard outside in the mild fall weather, and at various points during the day men rush masses of boxes into the store.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_34\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-34\" style=\"width: 150px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03241.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-34\" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03241.jpg?w=150\" alt=\"\" width=\"150\" height=\"84\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-34\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A link in the global supply chain<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>A less cursory look reveals that many that many storefronts are essentially warehouses that sell only to wholesalers. \u00a0Many of the shops adjoin large ring-shaped apartment buildings ringed around a central courtyard. \u00a0More boxes arrive via van, truck or in the case of smaller streets, the ubiquitous bike outfitted with sturdy wooden shelves above both wheels.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_37\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-37\" style=\"width: 84px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_0323-e1283549098766.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-37\" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_0323-e1283549098766.jpg?w=84\" alt=\"\" width=\"84\" height=\"150\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-37\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Keeping the balance of trade<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Yet it\u2019s hardly monoethnic: I hear Italian spoken as often as Chinese, and in the mass of overwhelmingly Chinese storefronts one spies the typical Italian bar, trattoria or even a highly-vaunted vintage shop. \u00a0(I\u2019m told Milanesi come from far and near to shop at <a title=\"Grani e Vaghi\" href=\"http:\/\/granievaghi.com\/index.php?lang=it\" target=\"_blank\">Grani e Vaghi<\/a>.)<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_38\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-38\" style=\"width: 84px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03121-e1283549627500.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-38\" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03121-e1283549627500.jpg?w=84\" alt=\"\" width=\"84\" height=\"150\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-38\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A rave review of a Chinese-managed Italian restaurant<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In perhaps a sign of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.nytimes.com\/2008\/04\/07\/world\/europe\/07food.html?_r=1&amp;pagewanted=2\">the shape of things to come<\/a>, these <em>trattorie<\/em> that make <em>risotto alla milanese<\/em> or <em>osso buco<\/em> have Chinese cooks or managers; I struck up a conversation with a Chinese butcher working at the deli counter of a decidedly Italian grocery as he cut me prosciutto, immeasurably thin just like most Italians like it.<\/p>\n<p>These experiences are, or should be, commonplace to any resident of northern Italy \u2013 <em>Corriere della Sera<\/em> publishes a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.corriere.it\/chinese\/\">Chinese edition<\/a>, the Duomo\u2019s tourist office has signs written prominently in both languages, and even tiny Veneto hamlets like Villanova del Ghebbo have burgeoning Chinese communities \u2013 but might come as a surprise to the non-resident, who might\u2019ve read news of the 2007 \u2018riots\u2019 in Chinatown with a hint of surprise that such a place even exists.<\/p>\n<p>This post, in addition to being an update, should serve to remind the reader on the other side of the Atlantic that the Chinese influence is being felt in a myriad of ways, across both sectors and geography. \u00a0No matter what the area of competitive advantage, China cannot escape notice.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_40\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-40\" style=\"width: 84px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_0330-e1283550877617.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-thumbnail wp-image-40\" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_0330-e1283550877617.jpg?w=84\" alt=\"\" width=\"84\" height=\"150\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-40\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Just inside a doorway, a warehouse bulges<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>So, in New York talk may center on the (under)valuation of the renminbi; down in DC, Congress and the Pentagon publish volumes guessing as to China\u2019s military capability; but here in Italy the focus is, of course, on clothing, shoes and leather \u2013 Italy\u2019s historic areas of advantage.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_20\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-20\" style=\"width: 180px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-20 \" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/image004.jpg?w=300\" alt=\"\" width=\"180\" height=\"135\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-20\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A diverse capital for a monoethnic party?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The Northern League often proclaims Milan as its Padanian, and presumably monoethnic, capital. \u00a0The most cursory visit to Milan\u2019s via Sarpi should reveal the folly of this. \u00a0The Chinese are here to stay, and\u00a0I look forward to updating readers on the goings-on in this nexus of cultures and economics.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_45\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-45\" style=\"width: 168px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03841.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-45 \" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03841-e1283635274953.jpg?w=168\" alt=\"\" width=\"168\" height=\"300\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-45\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Underwriting Milan&#39;s mortgages<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<figure id=\"attachment_46\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-46\" style=\"width: 270px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03161.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-46 \" src=\"http:\/\/iratecopyeditor.files.wordpress.com\/2010\/09\/img_03161.jpg?w=300\" alt=\"\" width=\"270\" height=\"151\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-46\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A match rooted in the travels of Marco Polo... va tranquilo, Senatur!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The blog has been on hold recently due to my moving to the area around via Paolo Sarpi \u2013 Milan\u2019s \u201cChinatown.\u201d \u00a0This is a fascinating neighborhood that has exploded in the past decade or so with Chinese wholesalers. \u00a0It is an ideal place to see how immigration, trade and globalization effect modern Europe. \u00a0The small &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/premesso.com\/?p=19\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;La Chinatown milanese&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11,12,19,33,36,42,47,70],"tags":[112,113,419,147,430,436,253,274,374],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=19"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/19\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=19"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=19"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/premesso.com\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=19"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}